Falletto
Serralunga d'Alba
Finding a vantage point that allows you to place Falletto (and also Ornato) in the context of the crus of Serralunga d’Alba and at the same time to perceive the unique conformation of the small valley that includes them is something that I have not yet succeeded in doing, and I’m afraid I never will.
On the other hand, the close-up views are quite comprehensive and indicate that Falletto is in a more closed position than Ornato and that the exposures of the slope they share curve from the initial southwest to southeast, in correspondence with the vineyard Le Rocche, and then to the west. Overall, then, Falletto would appear to be in a slightly cooler position than Ornato, whose exposures oscillate between south and southwest. And this, more than the makeup of the soils which are essentially identical, could explain the differences in style between the Barolo of these two MGAs: Falletto more vertical, Ornato more sumptuous.
The absence of Falletto in Renato Ratti’s map is completely inexplicable, though he does cite Ornato. If we refer back to Barolo from a single vineyard produced in these two MGAs, the first mention of Falletto dates to 1971 with the Barolo Riserva Etichetta Rossa of Bruno Giacosa. As for Ornato, as far as I know, the debut of Barolo Ornato by Pio Cesare dates to the 1985 vintage. But that’s not all. According to the website finewinegeek.com of Ken Vastola (a valuable reference point in terms of old vintages) Falletto was also the source of bottlings of Barolo produced by Luigi Brigante – previous owner of the farmhouse and vineyards – in 1961, 1971 and 1978. And I have no reason to doubt it, since Ken also provides photographic evidence (see below).
In this regard, however, allow me a bit of skepticism about the labels of all the Barolo and Barbaresco wines of that period and the difficulty in establishing precisely the first vintage in which a wine purely from one vineyard was bottled. In many wines at that time the denomination (in this case Barolo) appeared on the label, followed by the name of the producer (Brigante Luigi & Figli) and finally the address (Cascina Falletto in Serralunga d’Alba). In my opinion, and in my experience, mentioning the name of the farm does not mean that all the grapes came from Falletto and the additional phrase on the label (“prodotto nei propri vigneti” or “produced in one’s own vineyards”) only raises doubt.
The case of the Barolo Bussia 1961 from Prunotto, which I consider to be the first real Barolo from a single vineyard, is different. The label of this wine shows the name of the denomination (Barolo), the name of the cru (Bussia di Monforte d’Alba) and finally the name of the producer and his address.
In any case, the fact that the name Falletto is mentioned on Brigante’s labels remains an important point.
Finally, a note about the bizarre delimitation of the Vigna Le Rocche, whose boundary often cuts through the rows instead of following the dirt roads that divide the various plots. The answer is simple: as the law requires, the vineyard has been delimited following the real estate registry to the letter… unfortunately in many cases the cadastral subdivision itself does not reflect the realities of what is on the ground.
Recommended tastings
Barolo Falletto and Barolo Falletto Vigna Le Rocche – Bruno Giacosa
Reference tastings
Barolo Francia – Giacomo Conterno; Barolo Ornato – Palladino
Surface: 8.90 ha
